Tuesday 21 November 2023

1995 Paris

8.3.95

Cinema Europa Pantheon – Rue Victor-Cousin 13.  To see “Farinelli” – not open in London.  Ah, Paris.  Very arty cinema.  The seats all sponsored – all Left Bank do-gooders, doubtless.  The film, well, nice idea, terrible structure.  For me, its main failing was to give no idea of the overmastering power of the castrato’s voice: the one thing that drove everyone nuts.   The sound quite plausible.

9.3.95

Cité de la Musique – which doesn’t exist, and what does exist isn’t open.  Strange location, on the edge of things, surrounded by 19th century buildings, glass and steel à la Crystal Palace and the rest.

Bad night – something dodgy inside wanting to come out.  Fine sunny day, cold.

1993 Paris

13.4.93

Théâtre des Bouffes du Nord – finally.  Great interior, rather like Almeida Theatre and then some.  Crumbling, red/ochre plaster on walls, the palimpsest of stucco, the dubious pillars holding it up.  “L’Homme Qui” – Sacks, of course.  Nice café next door, chaotique ticket sales at the contrôle.  Managed to phone and pre-book.  Useful habit this is getting to be.  Above, a fine, obscured oval.  The stage a deep, high space behind the proscenium.  Must be fun working here.

This morning to FNAC, near Wagram – but Matisse advance tickets sold out, alas.  Have to queue.  Prices of CDs outrageous - £17 to £20.  Book selection disappointing too. To Gare/Musée d'Orsay– we queued for 20 minutes – tiresome.  As is the arrangement of galleries, it has to be said.  I think the spell of  Musée d'Orsay has been broken for me – I love the jeu d’esprit of using a station – but after that the details don’t repay constant visits. Perhaps this is one consequence of having seen London through the proverbial fresh eyes of some guests last weekend – and really liking it.  It looked remarkably clean, well-ordered and often free (museums etc.)  Well done, UK.  

Very Almeida sort of sound here.

14.4.93

Pompidou Centre.  Two hours queuing to get in here, and I realise that this, too, is all facade: the toilets by the café terrible.  Food OK – unlike the Louvre, whose café is an insult.  Is this the terrible secret of Paris?

Huge queues still, will take hours to clear.  Why didn’t this show come to London?  Shame.