13.12.92
In the (small train), waiting to go Brescia, then Padova. Lovely old train that reminds me of my Interrailing days. First time I went to Padova was about 13 years ago. In 13 years time I will be...old.
Padova. In the Sant'Antonio Basilica. Wow. Very Russian from outside – all cupolas. Inside, spacious. Very busy – great. Amazing south transept – huge altar. At the tomb of Sant'Antonio – votive offerings, the pix… A wall of silver hearts in thanks. Majestic exterior matched by the grandeur of the interior.
Through the backstreets to Caffè Pedrocchi – rather nice. But the memory of the church lingers: the best skyline in the world? Like San Marco, but more forceful, more heavenward. To the Cappella degli Scrovegni. New (for me) museum here: hundreds of religious pix, few much good, but nicely set out.
14.12.92
Cold today – around 2°C. Bought gloves even (at 5,000 Lire). Breakfast outside the hotel in café in the Piazza dei Signori. Bustling market around loggia. To Eremitani – lovely Mantegna frescoes, badly damaged by Allies. The face in the middle, staring out of the pic – Mantegna? Then to the main Palazzo della Ragione for rather small/unexciting exhibit of rings and jewels. But the hall is magnificent – a huge rhombus, painted walls, and at the end a huge horse, like the Trojan one, made of wood. Why?
Lunch in pizzeria nearby – excellent gnocchi (absent last night from the otherwise excellent restaurant, near Piazza dell’Erbe). Reminded me of Venice, where I had polenta first, and also Florence, a restaurant we frequented. After lunch and a rather perfumed grappa, to the church Santa Giustina beyond Sant’Antonio. Beautiful open piazza, spoilt by renovations and traffic. Church closed...but seems similar to the Basilica. Which we return to. Look at the fine frescoes in the north transept of Altichiero – again a face looking at us – “that fat guy”.
Slow walk through the colonnades, which make me think of Calvino for some reason, a little stop in bookshops and a few other negozi. A lazy, pleasant day, sunshine this afternoon, still very cold.
15.12.92
Campo Santa Maria Formosa, Hotel Scandinavia – which despite its name is beautiful. The train journey across to Santa Lucia must be the most romantic in the world. Especially, as now, in the mist. Very cold, damp, beautiful. And eccoci.
The view from our room number 1: Santa Maria Formosa to the left, the greengrocer’s stall to the right, lights in the church and in the building opposite, above “Il Burchiello”. Voices in the square echo hollowly. The room small but perfectly 18th century and Venetian.
16.12.92
This hotel has an amazing view of the viavai del mondo – Calle Lunga is right next to us. Cold again, but no fog. Saw some quite clever pix in the trattoria last night: long exposure jobs of Venice at night – perfect for the Nocturnes of Walks With Lorenzetti. Went to the Forestiera Valdese too: rooms available. I must stay there when I come to photo this place. Cheap too.
You appreciate Santa Maria Formosa from here – its mass.
In the newspaper La Nuova Venezia (ha!) says that the population of Venice has gone down by 1,000 to 75,000. What shall we do with this impossible city? I’d like to turn it into the world’s capital for artists: imagine.
The choreography of crowds – as I first understood at the Bolshoi in Moscow...
On the vaporetto: the gondole as they cross the Grand Canal, passengers standing stiffly as if in some ceremony…
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