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| Mantegna's masterpiece in Mantua |
13.8.26
Back in Mantegna's Camera Degli Sposi, Mantua. But today – miracle – it’s empty. The peace and beauty are pervasive. Colours as vibrant as ever. Parked down by the lake, then walked through the weekly market to here – big and lively.
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| Market day in Mantua |
Cobblestones everywhere, the circular church and cathedral very like those in Brescia. Long and elegant piazza leading to the Palazzo Ducale. The usual confusing hunt for the entrance.
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| Can you spot Mantegna's hidden self-portrait? |
To the Freddi Collection, 85 pix I’d not seen before. Downstairs the amazing “Expulsion of Bonacolsi”. So much happening everywhere in the nearby Piazza Sordello. By Domenico Morone. Copy of Triumphs of Caesar by Mantegna. The originals – of course – in the UK, at Hampton Court. Rebellion of Philoctetes by Giovanni Mosca – very delicate, lovely facial expressivity.
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| A model of a church facade made entirely of wheat |
Along from the main hall, a ceremonial “wheat cart” – depicting the facade of Santa Maria del Giglo in Venice – made entirely of woven wheat fibres.
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| Mount Olympus, apparently |
And here it is: the island with the labyrinth of water. An unremarkable but inexplicable fresco. The info says it is Mount Olympus….
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| A room decorated with Trojan frescoes |
In the Room of the Caesars – originally Titians, now lost, replaced by copied. Pity, they must have been powerful images. In the same room, a fine bust of Commodus, 2nd century AD. A room full of Troy. Lots of dramatic gestures. A panel from a sarcophagus, the Labours of Hercules – all of them shown together.
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| The long, hot gallery of busts |
Along the external gallery, past grass – far greener than in the UK, ironically – with dozens of Bernini-like twisted columns lining the facades. The gallery of busts – long and hot… To the Raphael tapestries – original cartoons in the V&A….
After a quick cappuccino (and tiramisu) by the still-pulsing market, to the cattedrale. Very impressive space inside, with a fine coffered barrel vault. Dome on a drum, high over the crossing. One of the best churches of its kind.
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| The cathedral's high dome and coffered barrel vaults |
Then to the ancient Rotonda di San Lorenzo, dating back to 11th century. Identical (well, obvs) with the one in Brescia, but much smaller, and more intimate. Some of the arches between columns delightfully wonky – still getting the hang of them, evidently.
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| Up to the Sonnabend Collection |
To the Sonnabend Collection – as two old bells with lovely overtones sound midday. The collection is housed in the Palazzo della Ragione – a huge and mercifully air-conditioned space, only opened last year. Full of 20th century art – a nice contrast to the Palazzo Ducale.
Lots of Warhol here – including a portrait of Mrs Ileana Sonnabend – never knew she was so plugged into the key art trends. Impressive. A temporary installation – Screen Tests – showing various big names of the 60s – Bob Dylan, Dali, Nico, Dennis Hopper – just looking at the camera for minutes. Surprisingly effective.
Great display of pix of water towers – Peter Greenaway would love it – by Bernd and Hilla Becher. Nice couple of Kiefers – one black and white, the other thick impasto.
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| A view from the clock tower |
Up the clock tower – not as vertiginous as the one in Cremona. At the top windows you can open for fine views across the city. A good way to end a tiring but rewarding few hours here in the beautiful city.
Moody Sonnets: Amazed In Mantua
More destinations:
2024 Ravenna - with photos
2025 Brescia - with photos
