2.10.93 Exeter
In the cathedral: have I been here before? The front looks familiar, but then English cathedrals have a commonality. Drove here from New Forest. England does look parochial, the more I travel, the more so it seems. A strange vision: the cathedral is full of Girl Guides and Brownies – and an orchestra. And not a black face to be seen.
Tintagel – the wind blowing madly. My dragon's cave recognisable. Glorious.
3.10.93 Polzeath Bay
To: eating Kelly's ice cream – happily unchanged after 30 years. As is Polzeath, relatively speaking. Port Isaac too, surprisingly attractive – in the absence of other tourists. The Surfside shop in Polzeath recognisable. Wonderful waves and cliffs, as ever.
In the Tate St. Ives café – white like the pix of Pieter Jansz. Saenredam. Lousy signs – but we found it on the other beach, aptly turning its back on the rather tawdry and tacky harbour. Never been to St. Ives before: rather nice here with the sea on three sides. Fine beach by the gallery, good surfing.
Mevagissey of all places – once just a name. Attractive, even under the rain – especially perhaps, since the tourists have fled. Staying in the Sharksfin Hotel – one star – stunning location – our room has a brilliant view over the double harbour. Walking around the town, past the church with two or three voices within – heard later, distantly, through the rain. Pure distilled melancholy in the soaked, deserted streets. Country and Western playing in the hotel's restaurant. Two swans outside in the harbour.
Strange sight of the wind power generators today and yesterday – huge giants doing limbering up exercises…
4.10.93 Mevagissey
Wonderful – not so much because of the sun – a fine, pale colour soon drowned by the rain – but for the chorus of cawing seagulls. Cold last night. For some reason, I think of Greek island ports – Naxos et al.
Totnes – back in the Willow restaurant. Talking Heads playing, The Guardian on the table, corn muffins to accompany yummy food. Same atmosphere.
Glastonbury Abbey in the late sun. In the Abbot's Kitchen, the Anglo-Saxon names: Worgret, Atfrith, Kengisal, Guba, Cuma, Tyccea, Tunberht, Muca, Hereferth, Stithheard, Brichtwine.
