14.1.94
By train, about three hours, £20 for two – what a luxus. To the Scandinavia Hotel (#5). Walked to Frari (bought flowers) too, took black and white photos of it – the first of many I trust for phase 847 of Walks with Lorenzetti. Sitting opposite the Canova: seems like someone has just gone in – or is about to come out. Very cold, grey, empty: perfect. A door to another dimension. Bloody camera a trial – only allowed me one flash in here…
6.15 pm. The bells of Santa Maria Formosa – two of them – outside our window. [Idea: photo the street signs – and their characteristic stencils – use tracing software to capture the font – call it “Formosa” and use in Walks with Lorenzetti…]
Supper in Trattoria Gigi, “Vecio Fritolin” San Lio 5410 – not bad. Nice atmosphere.
15.1.94
Pix of Santa Maria Formosa (La Nuova Venezia). To Correr – Longhi – opening quote from Goldoni. 1750 – Goldoni – sonnet for nozze Grimani – elegia dell’arte Longhi. [Gazzetto Veneto – 1760]. Bautta – fine word… Sette Sacramenti – for Querini at Santa Maria Formosa.
To Caffè Quadri (fondato 1638). Brilliant sunshine pouring in through the windows. Then a long day spent looking for shots – I did Walks with Lorenzetti in Piazza San Marco, the out to Zattere for Pensione Calcina. Took gondola for the first time – 500L. – traghetto back across Grand Canal, ate in Ciak 2 – nice locale. Walked back to station for a map and shot of San Simeone Piccolo. I went in San Geremia – weird outside like Piranesi – also inside. Then took #1 back to Rialto – realising that there is no point trying to capture the beauty that unfolded before us: my pix are specific constructs, not desperate and doomed captures.
16.1.94
To the Forestiera Valdese (8 places for “boys”, 8 for “girls”). Then along past San Lorenzo (being restored?) to San Giorgio dei Greci – where a service is being sun to an empty church. A huge iconostasis rears up.
Along to the Arsenale – what a strange place in a strange city – so open and empty. Few people around. To San Martino – inside, carved stalls from 18th century. Then to Bragora – first time I’ve been here (?) – San Giovanni in Bragora nothing special inside.
Photos in Piazza San Marco – the pigeons for “Picture Postcard”. [yesterday, taking pix of Pensione Calcina a contact lens fell out. I caught it, but what a palaver.]
Along to the Accademia Bridge, then to Cugnai – closed. To San Pantalon – what a ceiling. Organ noodlings in the background. Then to Crepizza behind it – fine South American slush in the background.
Then past Goldoni’s home – pix – and to Tintoretto exhibition near Rialto – rather disappointing – few pix, nothing special, little explanation. Then to hotel, surprisingly near from Rialto. Now in cafe by Teatro Goldoni, all’angolo by canal – where we’ve been many a time. Have just drunk what I take to be real Goldoni chocolate: black, thick, excellent. And to think of its journey from the Aztecs… (Bought Benátky guide – a snip at L.7,000) In Santa Maria Formosa for mass… Really lovely simple church. Recorded organ music plays as the bells call madly.
17.1.94
A last walk this morning (the smorning). Down Calle del Paradiso for the first time – and what a paradise: a bookshop with an ancient Egyptian grammar – and Lorenzetti (the red one). Closed, though, Monday morning….
But after searching in vain for the plaque on the wall where Mozart stayed, we return – and find it open. Bought Egyptian and dialettale. Lorenzetti next time….? (L.50,000).
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