2014 Riga

6.7.14 Riga

So, here again, a mere 17 years after the last entry in this notebook.  Of course, I've travelled widely thanks to work – to New Zealand, Brazil, much of Europe (Germany, France, Italy, Netherlands, Denmark, Belgium, Spain) but it's not the same: there the outside world is an image, incidental.  Travelling is about making that narrative the central one.

And so, old as I am, I rose at 3am today, taxi to Stansted (well, age has its privileges), 6.45am Ryanair flight to Riga – full, of Latvians judging by the applause when the plane landed safely…  The bus #22 from the airport, after buying a 24-hour ticket.  Struck by how much Russian was spoken – and how aggressive the customs were, asking if I were from Moscow, but uninterested when I said "London".

Lots of Russians in Riga – also lots of flash Lithuanian cars (as well as Russian and Ukrainian ones).  Today is Sunday, so the main people out are tourists – Germans, Russians.  Now in Black Cat restaurant – a lot of good Latvian food – soup, then farmer's porridge.  Weather hot, but sky covered, so no beating sun.  Very interesting food: potato soup, quite watery; porridge, with potatoes and bacon – very filling – and Latvian pudding – ice cream, jam, brown bread – rich but nice.  Still very quiet.

Spent this afternoon walking – Riga is very walkable, with the old town compact.  Inevitably reminds me a lot of Prague, plus bits of Copenhagen and Vilnius.  Very hot – the drains giving out their characteristic malodorous smell.  Went down to the river, which is very broad – it's close to the sea, but rather dull.  The main suspended bridge impressive – looks like a Sumerian harp.  Had a big cappuccino near the main church.  Unfortunately, the weather forecast for tomorrow and Tuesday not wonderful – strong downpours.  But seems very changeable, so we shall see…

7.7.14 Riga

Hot.  Very hot – they say 30ºC with thunderstorms to follow.  Earlier, cool morning, light sunshine – great walking weather.  To the cathedral, with its organ being restored, plain interior, and atmospheric cloisters.  To the station – always one of the my favourite places in a city.  Riga's cool and attractive – trains to Moscow and St. Petersburg…  Struck again by how much Russian there is, especially in newspapers and DVD shops.  Hoping to eat in a Georgian restaurant today.  It was a long way out.  And I walked past it the first time.  And it was closed on a Monday…

So, another long walk back to the centre.  I ended up in Lido Dzirnavas.  Confusing at first – it was a self-service buffet; it felt very authentic, full of Rigans dashing in and out rapidly.  No tourists here (well, apart from me).  Then along to the National Gallery, one of the few open on a Monday.  Even though 2014 is the year Riga is cultural capital of Europe, the museum is closed for restructuring – what bad planning.  So down to the canal running through the park.  Cool breeze here, but big fluffy clouds piling up – storms on their way.

Oddly, there is harpsichord music playing in this restaurant (Key to Riga), which clashes with the bass guitar from around the corner.  Spent the afternoon wandering.  Perhaps most interesting place was central market – huge, a throwback to Soviet times, I imagine.  Very atmospheric.  Russian TV on the screen in the restaurant, with Latvian subtitles… Baroque violin on the speakers.  Alas, restaurant a total rip-off.  Bread alone cost 4.80 euros, selection of cheeses limited and unappetising.  Do not recommend…

8.7.14 Riga

Finally made it to the Georgian restaurant, taking the #11 tram (much easier).  Spent most of this morning in bookshops.  Inevitably bought a Latvian language course – with a twist, since the main language of the text is Russian.  Shows nicely the cognates…  Have ordered at Aragats restaurant: pickled vegetables, pkhali (bean and walnut pate), aubergine with cheese (Armenian, actually), kharcho soup – beef, rice, sour plums, vegetables and puri – warm, thick bread.  Some puds look nice too…  Also thrown in a Masuro: "Armenian wild rose syrup, soda lime, mint leaves".  Sounds wild.  Weird feelings here: I couldn't remember where I was – felt like I was in the Caucasus – if only… next time, perhaps.  Pickled veg didn't come – just as well, already full.  Now trying Georgian sorbet, and coffee parvana – with ginger and sesame. Interesting…

Finally managed to find a gallery that was open.  In the old (?) Birzha – Stock Exchange.  A variety of exhibitions – Italian renaissance drawings, Asian art (amazing nobleman's coat from China), 18th, 19th century Western art, and to finish, Latvian art from 19th and 20th century.  Sitting in front of the Gauja Valley, by Julijs Feders.  Very atmospheric, real sense of vast landscape, of the possibility of travel.

At Riga airport, ridiculously early – I was the only one passing through security, and the only one in Costa (sic).  Now filled out, but nice relaxed end-of-day atmosphere – not least because sun is still high in the sky.  Classic rock on the speakers – rather nice chilled-out feel… Looking at my Latvian language book, really looks good – not least because I can practise Russian at the same time.

More destinations:

2022 Bratislava

Moody's Black Notebook Travels

2019 Moldova

15.2.2019 Chișinău

Sitting in the Molka Club coffee house.  Flew in a couple of hours ago – the only non-Moldovan on the plane, I'd guess.  Wizzair, very cheap.  In City Park Hotel – very central, modern, clean.  Unlike the city, which is very run-down – reminds me of Priştina, but bigger.  Driving in from the airport with my taxi – nice Mercedes, driven by a bloke whose mother was Russian, father Ukrainian ("I never saw him"), who spoke Russian mainly, Romanian only roughly – I saw huge chimneys in the distance, belching out smoke.  Cloudy and cold (4ºC) when we landed, but good walking weather.  Only here until Sunday – even taxi driver admitted it was enough.  Greyness suits the city.  My coffee – à la Moldova – has arrived, with some kind of liqueur – cherry?  Also have cake – looks crunchy.  Everyone here is talking Russian. Wifi good, though, as is the hotel's – which is a mercy, since I don't have mobile data here…

Now in La Placinte, near hotel.  Menu looks good, reviews good, and nice atmosphere.  Went for a walk in dusk along main street, Stefan cel Mare si Sfant Boulevard - a kind of Chișinău Avenue des Champs-Élysées.  Lots of the main buildings nicely illuminated, adding a grace otherwise missing when it's light.  Quite cold now – glad of my thick coat, would like a hat.

On the plane, reading Pushkin's biography.  I've already read it, but because I'm reading The Captain's Daughter it is all much more vivid and meaningful.  And of course his Caucasian experiences now speak directly to me – the fact that I've driven along the road he took – and described in his Voyage to Erzurum – is just an amazing thought.  And it's one reason I am here: it was in Chișinău that he began Eugene Onegin.  What remains of his house is open, and I hope to visit.  Food good.  I'm amazed at how much Russian is spoken here – very much a second language.  Good wifi here too, which is handy.  Tried pear grappa – pretty much as you'd expect.

16.2.2019 Chișinău

In the Propaganda restaurant for lunch.  Nice ambience.  Pretty good breakfast in the beer place next to the hotel.  Then ordered a taxi to go to Orheiul Vechi – 60 euros to go, wait, come back.  Seems fair.  My driver Dmitri – Russian speaking, son of two immigrants from Odessa.  Cheerful young chap.  As in Armenia, we first have to stop to fill up with gas – which meant getting out of the car.  This time, though, good café in the garage, so had espresso.  Pretty decent.

On the road.  Very moderate driving – cameras everywhere, so not much speeding.  That's good, because roads pretty bad.  Countryside flat, drab, not much green.  Rather depressing.  Passed through old village near Orheiul.  Striking how many houses are painted in Uyghur blue.  Dmitry didn't know why.  Saw horse and cart, but surprised not more.

To the church.  Dmitry drove right up to it – rather dodgy road (he started to take me down one he said had a good view that turned into mud and sludge.  Not easy to back out of…)  Church newly repaired and gleaming.  Along the narrow ridge to the entrance to the caves.  Nearby, a bunch of nutters were abseiling down the cliff to the excavated cells.  Not very safe.  Down a dark, sloping passage – reminded me of the Valley of the Kings – to the main chapel.  Rather beautiful.  Looked at the nearby cells – tiny.  A hibernating snake in one corner.

Back to Chișinău.  A man lying beside the road, drunk.  Dmitry offered to take me to Pushkin's house, as I had mentioned it to him. I had intended going on foot today or tomorrow, but accepted.  Through the backstreets, the old Chișinău according to Dmitry, to the house.  Only one other visitor.  Guide ladies all speaking Russian.  The museum part (not the house) has many letters of Pushkin – and drafts of his poems.  Both full of his drawings.  But most striking – the crossings-out – practically every line.  Pushkin worked on his poetry.  To his house – two rooms: living + bedroom, kitchen.  To think of the things that began here…

Food pretty good here, actually, good mushroom soup, chicken tasty.  To the National Museum of Art.  Nicely modernised, all pure whites inside. Not much to see...various Moldovan artists, but nothing of note.  Quite popular, which is good.  Then along to Stephen the Great park.  Nice atmosphere, even now in February.  Along to see the Pushkin bust, then to the Stephen the Great monument – reminds me of Tirana.  In front of Government House, dozens of new blue buses neatly aligned.  Weird.  Then for a stroll along the main Stefan cel Mare si Sfant Boulevard, and back to the hotel to read more of the Pushkin bio.  Afterwards, out to Placinte – excellent food and very close.  Opposite here, along the edge of the cathedral, dozens of florists, with amazing explosions of colour for sale…

Sadly, as if often the case, food not so good tonight: fish soup had bones, beef stroganoff a bit fatty...ah well.  Had the beignets again..plus 7-year-old Divin Călăraşi – which I bought along with two bottles of red wine to take back.  Pretty good stuff…

17.2.2019 Chișinău

Glorious sunny day – perfect for walking.  Which I did, all the way to the railway station.  Along the main boulevard.  Quite quiet.  At the end, past all the stalls selling knick-knacks, the Soviet buildings dominate.  Huge, ugly blocks, stained concrete, graceless.  Very like Albania and Priştina.  Using the underpass, the same little kiosks found in Georgia and Armenia (passed two Georgian restaurants, too).  Down to the station, surprisingly ornate – same with other buildings – for example the government ones.  Little architectural curlicues, hints of Egyptian motifs (sic).  Inside the station, very quiet.  Café closed.  Departure and Arrivals boards show Moscow, St. Petersburg, Bucharest.  That pull of exotic lands.  Platforms long, bare.  

Then back along the boulevard, to my room, and then to Placinte.  Despite last night, still good value.  This afternoon will be full of two museums, then taxi to the airport.  To the National Museum of history.  Amazing exhibit on Cucuteni civilisation – obsessed with ceramics – who then disappeared for no known reason.  Flourished 5,000 years ago. Poduri village.  Ended 3,600 years ago.  Then gap of 1,500 years. 300,000 to 400,000 population the video here says… Frumusica site; Prut river.  Tried to find another art gallery – in vain.  Later I discovered it was where I thought it was – on the main boulevard, in the rather over the top Villa – but closed.  So, to finish my rather fine if short trip to Chișinău, I just sat behind the statue of Stephen the Great, in his park, watching the citizens enjoying this lovely Sunday in Moldova.

More destinations:

1993 Istanbul

1994 Trieste, Ljubljana 

2017 Bucharest

2018 Tirana

2022 Bratislava

Moody's Black Notebook Travels

2018 Armenia

18.10.18 London Heathrow 

Unusually, I write on a plane – a shiny new Aeroflot A331.  Not like the previous Aeroflot plane – an old banger to Samarkand. But I'm on my way to another equally suggestive city: Yerevan.  I'm flying to Moscow where I change.  Still no direct flights from London to Armenia.  Appalling.

And so I realise a long-held desire to visit the land of (almost) Ararat.  In fact, I nearly went with the old Aeroflot, when Intourist offered incredibly cheap flights to get hard currencies.  As well as Uzbekistan, I went to Moscow and Leningrad as was.  On offer was Armenia and Georgia, and at the time I regretted not going.  But my two recent trips to Georgia were probably far better, since I wouldn't have seen much with Intourist…

My path to this plane has been long and contested.  Originally, I was going back to Georgia, but for various reasons that didn't happen.  Just as well: on the day I was due to be in Georgia, I developed the first and thus worst toothache of my life – quite hard to eat, and needing constant painkillers.  Would have ruined Georgia.  I eventually got the tooth fixed by a new dentist – who, by chance, was of Armenian origin.  She's good, and solved the pain, so here I am, surrounded by authentic-looking Russians – tractor-driver ladies (large), mafia-type men (sinister) and waif-like stewardesses (pretty).

Getting to Yerevan is fairly epic: four hours to Moscow, two-hour wait, then two to three hours to Yerevan, arriving at 6am.  At the airport I need to get a SIM for my phone, and then a Rideways taxi should take me to Yerevan Ibis.  This is very central, and very cheap – about £40 a night. Now waiting in Sheremetyevo.  Huge place, quite lively for midnight – quite a few flights going out.  Mine leaves at 2am.  Striking that signs are in Russian and Chinese…

19.10.18 Yerevan 

So here I am at last.  In the Ibis hotel, eating a slight expensive (5000 dram) breakfast.  But here.  Managed to sleep for almost all of the three-hour flight down here – hard, but managed.  Sadly, no vision of Ararat, even though I'd chosen my seat for this – still pitch black.  Lots of stars though.  Very long queue at passport control, but they let me through in 20 minutes.  Case arrived, and then I bought a SIM – 2800 dram for 5 Gbytes – pretty cheap…

In retrospect, using Moscow as a hub for central Asia is obvious – can't think why I didn't use it before.  Perhaps thinking back to the old Aeroflot planes… For example, they have flights to Almaty, Astana, Ulaanbaatar… lots of appealing places.  Must check prices…

Driving in from the airport, the Armenian script looked wonderfully exotic – must learn the capital letters, which stump me too often.  Lots of oriental-looking people here.  Can't tell if they are central Asian, Koreans, Chinese...haven't heard speech yet.  Sounds Japanese...makes sense, Armenia relatively close to Japan.  Big party of them here.

After I had shaved, I felt vaguely human, and went out wandering in the glorious autumn sunshine.  It was cold – 5°C – when I got off the plane, but the sun was moving the temperature up.  First problem: the SIM I bought wouldn't work with my venerable mobile phone.

Down to Republic Square.  Really impressive; spacious with towering buildings forming it.  The use of stone here is really good.  Lots of minivans offering trips to Lake Sevan et al. - but no prices.  Time to haggle… Then up Northern Avenue.  Swanky and culminating in the Armenian Opera Theatre, and Freedom Square.  Along the way I went in to the main mobile company – U.com.  It took two of them 20 minutes, but they eventually got my SIM working.

Now in the restaurant Lavash, on Tumanian Street.  Eaten fried pork and potatoes: not bad – and very cheap (about £4).  Opposite me in the Tumanian Sharwa – might try it another day.  Back to the hotel for a quick kip, then out again, down to the river valley.  And there it is, looming majestically in the afternoon haze – Mount Ararat.  Great view from the church of St. Sargis – amazing stones that look almost edible in their variations of honey hue.  Very characteristic Armenian style – shallow carving on the facade, tall narrow windows, tiny bell towers on the corners.    Afterwards I took one of Yerevan's long, straight boulevards – Mashtots Paghota – aligned with Ararat.

Passed colourful market, and was able to change euros at a good rate.  Then on for over a kilometre, past the opera house, and Khachaturian's statue, up beyond the ring road, almost to the Matenadaran, where I'll go tomorrow.  Then right, back to Abovian Paghats.  The contrast of Yerevan with Tbilisi is interesting.  Yerevan is more sophisticated, but Tbilisi is more atmospheric.  I think it goes back to the fact that Yerevan is a planned city, but Tbilisi is just layer upon layer. (Yerevan may be older, but little remains of that except Erebuni.)   People seem better-off here, strolling along Northern Avenue, just as in Italy or Spain.  Lots of top-end shops.  Yerevan seems to have more money than Tbilisi, but I think Georgia's economy is doing better than Armenia's, probably because it is not isolated by war as Armenia is.

I'm really lucky (of course, in many ways) because Yerevan is celebrating its 2800th anniversary on Sunday.  Lots of banners around.  Be interesting to see what they do.  Now out at supper.  The good news: it's so mild I'm eating outside.  The bad news: people smoke a lot, and in the restaurants.  In Terian Street, in a small restaurant that looks quite original.  Very popular, a good sign.  Sadly, food was slow in coming and unbalanced – ah well.  Tun Lahika – will give it a miss in future.  But hard to believe I only arrived early this morning.  Up to the top of the Cascades...reminds me of the weird Hoxha building in Tirana.  Still hazy…

20.10.18 Yerevan 

I sit at the feet of Mashtots, looking out at Ararat.  Nice building – the Armenians are rather good at monuments.  Fine manuscripts inside, including Middle Georgian manuscripts.  Sunny, but hazy – pity about Ararat, but good for walking.  To give my knee a rest, in to The Green Bean for Armenian coffee.  Good stuff, and cheap at 500 dram. To the Museum of Russian Art.  Amazing exhibition on Vrubel's "Demon and angel battling for Tamar's soul" – Lermontov's Georgian poem, of course.  Amazing because of the restoration carried out on the torn, stolen art work.  "Demon" read in the background – lovely atmosphere.  

Into the crazy Cafesian Gallery.  Sitting in front of the huge Battle of Vardanank by Grigor Khanjian.  Central battle scene rather effective.  Not wild about all the lifts here… Now in front of Sasuntsi Davit, by Artashes Hovsepian. Beautiful stone relief – something Armenians excel at.  Interesting exhibition of Shadi Ghadinian – Iranian female photographer.  Striking images under difficult conditions.

Back to Tumanian Street – lots of restaurants here; chose Lebanese for kebab.  To the History Museum.  Incredible wealth for such old stuff – hearthstones, huge vessels – all four to five thousand years old.  Armenia clearly a hearth of humanity.  Stunning funereal cart with four huge wheels… To the Urartu section.  Incredible to see the inscription of Erebun – 782 BCE.  Out of the museum into nearby Jazzve cafe for surch… I was exhausted after only one floor of the place – so much quality stuff to see.

Out early for dinner, as I expected things to be busy...and they are, even at this time.  To Lavash, where I barely got a table upstairs.  After the museum, to Vernissage.  Huge – much bigger than Temple Street in Hong Kong.  Lots of interesting stuff – and lots of tat, like £10 duduks, of which there are hundreds… T-shirts, jewels, carpets, chess sets, silverware, rings, scarfs, books (in Russian and in Armenian), kitchenware etc.  And not a price in sight – haggling is order of the day here. I took a break from this by going to the city's cathedral.  Which looks like a prison – big and blocky, with little that is graceful or spiritual.  Such a contrast to the Holy Trinity church in Tbilisi, also new, so it shows it can be done.  Then back to the market.  Found a stall selling music, and haggled for two books for learning the duduk from 13,000 dram to 10,000 dram, so not bad.

Then, from the market, took a taxi back to the hotel – my knee is still complaining about the Cascades…  Rather angry driver listening to Russian pop music, got me back for 1000 dram – about £1.30, so pretty cheap.  Will probably take them again.

Just had a good soup with yoghurt and buckwheat.  Took a glass of Armenian wine - £2.  Waiting for beef now.  Which turned out to be beef and beans cooked inside a pumpkin – absolutely wonderful.  Red wine not bad, not quite as punchy as Georgian wine.

21.10.18 Yerevan 

An unusual morning.  Now in Artbridge Bookstore Cafe – seems the Yerevan equivalent of Prospero's Bookshop in Tbilisi. I had originally planned to go to the National Gallery this morning.  But the weather today is sunny, while tomorrow will be cloudy, so I decided to go to Khov Virap in the hope of seeing Ararat.  The question then: how to get there, and how to pay.  There were to taxis outside Ibis hotel.  I spoke to the driver of one, a typical young Armenian.  We agreed after haggling on 10,000 dram – about £7.  I got in the back.  Seat belts stuck behind the seats.  This was a big problem, because he drove like a maniac.  After we established Russian as our best mode of communication, I asked him to stop, and sat in the front seat, which had a seat belt.  He didn't wear his.  Then we stopped for gas – not petrol, but LPG (I assume).  This is held in a large tank in the boot.  The man filling it up told me to stand back – "опасно".  Great.  Then we hared off to the site.

The journey interesting, if hardly attractive.  Dry, dusty, sere landscape – like Tbilisi/Turkey, only poorer.  Lots of old Soviet infrastructure, struggling to work.  Everywhere those strange pipes – the same I saw in Stepantsminda – gas supplies.  Thanks to his speeding – at about 120 km/hour – we soon reached our destination.  Still rather hazy, alas, although at least I was closer to Ararat.  Must be stunning on a clear day.  Didn't bother going to the church, which is no match to many others.  Saw a sheep with a red ribbon – not a good sign, I fear – I think it means a sacrifice.  Then back to Yerevan.  But given we were in the right part of the city, I decided to go to Erebun.  After all, today is being celebrated as the 2800th anniversary of its founding.  In fact, I saw the inscription in cuneiform yesterday.  Zipped around museum (free today), then climbed hundreds of steps (aaargh) to the top.

Very impressive – huge, well-preserved walls.  Lots of rooms visible.  Reminded me of Knossos, but even better preserved.  Roughly contemporary, too, I think. In fact the remains of the walls so high and steep I found it impossible to get down, except at the main entrance.  Lovely views of the city, too, although not exactly beautiful.  Amazing the history of this place – prehistoric and Urartan. I was there about 40 minutes, so taxi driver not very pleased.  I'd agreed 14,000 dram, but ended up giving 15,000 dram to keep him happy.  He wasn't.

To the National Gallery, which confusingly is in the same building as the National Museum.  As usual, you begin at the top, which means a ride in a very ricketty Soviet lift.  Not much special here, except Hakob Hovnatanian (1806-1881).  Born and worked in Tbilisi.  Lots of fine portraits, if a little repetitive.  A room full of Hovhannes Aivazovsky (1817-1900), including "The Darial gorge"...wonder if he went there.  Probably. Also "Noah descending from Ararat" by the same artist. Majestic painting of Ararat by Gevorg Bashinjaghian (1857-1925).  Simple, but effective.  Also of Kazbeg and Daryal gorge. Nice view of Ararat by Yegishe Tadevosian (1870-1936) viewed from Echmiadzin. "Old Tiflis" by Panos Terlemezian (1865-1941).

After the gallery I went to the Republic Square, saw the marching bands.  Sat in the garden by Italy Street, had a coffee. And then I had a problem: most of the square was closed off by the police – I assume some bigwig was coming (the mayor?).  Luckily, I saw an Armenian man arguing with the police, who finally let him through – so I and several others joined the group to cut across the blockade.  Later, I sat nearby Vernissage, reading emails.  

Heavy beats filled the air – Yerevan2018 celebrations in full swing.  I decided to eat early to avoid the crowds gathering for the celebration that night.  In Mamoor, which has good reviews, very near.  Nice pumpkin soup..slight spoiled by people smoking here, which is common… One striking thing about the National Gallery: every room had at least one attendant, but there were only four of us looking at the pix…

22.10.18 Yerevan 

Back in the Lebanese for lunch – it's slightly damp outside, and I didn't want to wander.  Since most museums are closed today – à la France – out to Geghard monastery.  First, find a taxi and haggle.  Went with an old geezer for 10,000 dram.  No seat belts in back, so I moved to the front again.  Old, gas-powered car.  Interesting bloke.  Born in Tbilisi, Russian teacher by profession (we spoke in Russian), but now driving taxis to support his daughter and grandson, who bore his name – Yura.  Life obviously hard, since was about my age.

Lovely drive to Geghard monastery – climbing, looked like Georgia (no surprise).  No traffic about, although a few coaches at the site – Russians mostly, plus a group of French.  Impressive church, gleaming and unusual – inside, a cave.  On the outside of the main church, graffiti from the 1840s – reminds me of Egypt…

Then back via Garni.  Temple fab, but rebuilt.  Interesting it exists here, of course.  But for main thing was the fantastic views of Garni valley.  I only heard about this place a few months ago, when I watched a YouTube video of this crazy Russian bloke recording his drive to Garni through Georgia – which is how I came across it.

Drive back into Yerevan a bit hair raising – driver moved across junction as cars from right stormed away – narrowly avoided impact.  But otherwise a great trip.  Gave him 10,000 dram plus 2,000 for his grandson…  Forgot to mention: Yura has travelled everywhere in ex-Soviet Union – Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Russia.  Big advantage of a common market.

Sitting in Khachaturian's house.  Not much to see – lots of concert programmes, a few scores.  Best bit is the part he lived in – had that old person's smell.  Beautiful portrait of him conducting in London (Abbey Road Studios?). But overall impression is one of sadness…

Back in the Green Bean – has a nice vibe, and I need coffee and pud.  Everyone's smoking – no wonder: I saw packets cost just £1 for 20 cigarettes.  Then to Vernissage again.  On to see poor Griboyedov's statue.  Never heard of him six months ago, but now I feel I've known him for ages.  Poor chap.  Nearby, huge concrete monstrosity – reminded me of Albania… On the metro.  Had to see what it was like.  Small, undistinguished, not deep like Tbilisi.  Back to Republic Square, then walked down Italy Street across to supermarket.  Need to buy some Ararat cognac and good wines.  Got them, then grabbed a taxi for 1000 dram.

For dinner, thought to try Tumanyan Shaurma.  Disappointing – food not very appetising.  Hope it doesn't do anything serious to my guts.

23.10.18 Yerevan 

Sitting at the Marriott in Republic Square.  Lovely warm autumn morning.  Alas, still hazy, so the view of Ararat still tantalisingly partial. Took a taxi to the Genocide Memorial.  Very fine – that Armenian monumentality again.  The huge slabs of rock serving the architects well.  No one else there, as it should be for the best appreciation.  The flickering flame down in the well, the flowers - carnations – laid around its border.  Very simple, very effective.

It is very strange.  I have been longing to come to Armenia for 40 years – I regretted not taking the Intourist Armenia and Georgia package.  But in the end, better thus.  Then, they were poor and oppressed.  Now, both are free and happy places.  I feel at home in both.  Almost more here, because the language is easier.  I think I know why Yerevan feels so different from Tbilisi: it is a very compact, homogeneous city.  Tbilisi is spread out, with different parts that don't hang together.  That said, Tbilisi's old quarter is not matched by anything here in Yerevan.  And Georgia's scenery is more majestic.  However, Yerevan's museums are much better…

Took taxi back to Republic Square for coffee in Marriott café – what a shrewd move to buy this building – location, location, location.  Lovely sunshine.  Then walked to Museum of Modern Art.  Hard to find – hidden on a side street in nondescript building.  Quite interesting.  Overall tone: rather sad and depressing… Then to Artbridge Bookstore Café.  Empty.  To hotel for a quick kip – tonight is going to be long and tiring.  Managed to book window seats.

Where to finish?  Went to the museum dedicated to Spendiarian – not a name I'd come across before.  No one else there.  Now sitting in Republic Square, the only place to end the day.  Dark storm clouds looming to the south, a few drops of rain.

After last night's disappointing food, only one place possible: Lavash, where I reserved a table to make sure.  Will eat a fair amount to keep going during the night since Aeroflot food is not great… Eating aveluk soup and ghapama erzurum – which I had before.  So good, I want it again...plus wine (I will have two glasses tonight...)

More destinations:

1993 Istanbul

2015 Tbilisi

2017 Georgia

Moody's Black Notebook Travels