Monday, 24 August 2026

Moody: the works

A list of links to all my non-tech writings:

Essays

Glanglish - with audio versions

Travel writings

Novels

Poems

Moody Sonnets - with audio versions
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Introduction to Moody Travels

I have two great regrets in my life.  One is eating a chicken sandwich in Varanasi, shortly before flying to Kathmandu.  This gave me the worst food poisoning I have ever experienced, nearly killed me, and meant that I missed a unique opportunity to visit Lhasa before it was turned into a Chinese Disneyland.  The other regret involves three Inter-rail trips that I made in 1979, 1980 and 1981.  They were extraordinarily rich in sights and experiences.  Stupidly, though, I did not keep a travel diary at that time, so all I have are vague, if important, memories of what I saw, thought and felt.

At least I was able to learn from these two huge blunders.  Afterwards, I no longer ate chicken sandwiches in exotic lands, and I kept travel diaries for all my major trips.  The latter took the form of black notebooks, bought from Ryman's, in two formats: one small enough to fit in a pocket, and another, slightly larger, that I kept in the travel bag I used for longer journeys. 

I now have dozens of these notebooks sitting behind me, filled with my illegible scrawl.  I have been meaning to turn them into digital texts for some years, and to bring them into the 21st century, but have never got around to it until now.  I am not transcribing them in any set order, but will place links to them below, as they go online, ordered chronologically.  There is no overall plan, no overall significance.  They are just what they are: quick thoughts jotted down in black notebooks, captured moments of a specific time and place.

1986 India I: Delhi, Agra, Fatehpur Sikri
1986 India II: Kashmir
1986 India III: Jaipur, Udaipur
1987 Italy
2021 Gibraltar - with photos
2022 Stavanger - with photos
2022 Bratislava - with photos
2023 Bilbao - with photos
2023 Shetland - with photos
2024 Ravenna - with photos
2024 Georgia - with photos
2025 Sarajevo - with photos
2025 Toronto - with photos
2025 Azerbaijan - with photos
2025 Brescia - with photos
2025 Istanbul - with photos
2026 Skopje - with photos
2026 Mantua - with photos new post 
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2026 Mantua

Mantegna's masterpiece in Mantua
Mantegna's masterpiece in Mantua

13.8.26

Back in Mantegna's Camera Degli Sposi, Mantua.  But today – miracle – it’s empty.  The peace and beauty are pervasive.  Colours as vibrant as ever.  Parked down by the lake, then walked through the weekly market to here – big and lively.

Market day in Mantua
Market day in Mantua

Cobblestones everywhere, the circular church and cathedral very like those in Brescia.  Long and elegant piazza leading to the Palazzo Ducale.  The usual confusing hunt for the entrance.

Can you spot Mantegna's hidden self-portrait?
Can you spot Mantegna's hidden self-portrait?

To the Freddi Collection, 85 pix I’d not seen before.  Downstairs the amazing “Expulsion of Bonacolsi”.  So much happening everywhere in the nearby Piazza Sordello.  By Domenico Morone.  Copy of Triumphs of Caesar by Mantegna.  The originals – of course – in the UK, at Hampton Court.  Rebellion of Philoctetes by Giovanni Mosca – very delicate, lovely facial expressivity. 

A model of a church facade made entirely of wheat
A model of a church facade made entirely of wheat

Along from the main hall, a ceremonial “wheat cart” – depicting the facade of Santa Maria del Giglo in Venice – made entirely of woven wheat fibres. 

Mount Olympus, apparently
Mount Olympus, apparently

And here it is: the island with the labyrinth of water.  An unremarkable but inexplicable fresco.  The info says it is Mount Olympus….

A room decorated with Trojan frescoes
A room decorated with Trojan frescoes

In the Room of the Caesars – originally Titians, now lost, replaced by copied.  Pity, they must have been powerful images.  In the same room, a fine bust of Commodus, 2nd century AD.  A room full of Troy.  Lots of dramatic gestures.  A panel from a sarcophagus, the Labours of Hercules – all of them shown together.

The long, hot gallery of busts
The long, hot gallery of busts

Along the external gallery, past grass – far greener than in the UK, ironically – with dozens of Bernini-like twisted columns lining the facades.  The gallery of busts – long and hot…  To the Raphael tapestries – original cartoons in the V&A….

After a quick cappuccino (and tiramisu) by the still-pulsing market, to the cattedrale.  Very impressive space inside, with a fine coffered barrel vault.  Dome on a drum, high over the crossing.  One of the best churches of its kind.

The cathedral's high dome and barrel vaults
The cathedral's high dome and coffered barrel vaults

Then to the ancient Rotonda di San Lorenzo, dating back to 11th century.  Identical (well, obvs) with the one in Brescia, but much smaller, and more intimate.   Some of the arches between columns delightfully wonky – still getting the hang of them, evidently.

Up to the Sonnabend Collection
Up to the Sonnabend Collection

To the Sonnabend Collection – as two old bells with lovely overtones sound midday.  The collection is housed in the Palazzo della Ragione – a huge and mercifully air-conditioned space, only opened last year.  Full of 20th century art – a nice contrast to the Palazzo Ducale.

Lots of Warhol here – including a portrait of Mrs Ileana Sonnabend – never knew she was so plugged into the key art trends.  Impressive.  A temporary installation – Screen Tests – showing various big names of the 60s – Bob Dylan, Dali, Nico, Dennis Hopper – just looking at the camera for minutes.  Surprisingly effective.

Great display of pix of water towers – Peter Greenaway would love it – by Bernd and Hilla Becher.  Nice couple of Kiefers – one black and white, the other thick impasto.

A view from the clock tower
A view from the clock tower

Up the clock tower – not as vertiginous as the one in Cremona.  At the top windows you can open for fine views across the city.  A good way to end a tiring but rewarding few hours here in the beautiful city.

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